![]() ![]() So until a SME or Battery Engineer can come in an shed more technical reasons why one is better than the other, There is no practical difference. In our labs and testing equipment we have run everything from the SF/Pan, Stream, Dura, Eng, Sony, and a bunch of cheaper offshore variants, there is little to no difference in quality. There may be slight differences but will be insignificant. They will have the same or similar chemical makeup, they will have robust containers, they should not leak and the same voltage. Means just about all CR123 batteries will perform the same. They are also known as RCR123A and 16340 batteries. Lithium Batteries due to their nasty ass chemical makeup, ALL have much more robust construction making battery leakage and therefore electronic destruction very very unlikely. The CR123A batteries are also available as rechargeable batteries. Since almost all CR123 are Lithium, and the number #1 battery failure by FAR is leakage/corrosion/explosions. We are talking about CR123, not AA or AAA.Ĭomparing AA or AAA Lithium to cheap NICAD or Alkaline is not the argument. /rebates/&252flithium252fcr123a.html26tc3dbing-&idmicrobattery&namemicrobattery&ra4. ![]() I like a thread with an abundance of anecdotes it ain't data, but it is useful nonetheless - assuming a certain level of intelligence and integrity.Ĭlick to expand.Here is where you fail: People often consult price when buying wine, and it doesn't always work well the same is true of batteries. The Evergreen CR123A 3 volt Lithium primary (non-rechargeable) battery may be used for many different applications including: cameras (photo), digital cameras. I put everything on a tester before it goes in a device.įor those that recall the Kestrel issue many years ago with Duracell batteries, we tend to lean sorta "battery-snob"-ish, I guess you could say. I've had a few energizers (on the higher end of the $ scale) be off right out of the packaging. I am not trying to start a shitstorm, quite the contrary Surefires have been great for me and they tend to be on the lower end of the bulk $ scale. This applies to rechargeable too - maybe more so. If it is a $20 flashlight you got on Amazon, rock on if it is a $10,000 thermal, no chance in hell I am putting a no-name battery in mine. ![]() They CANNOT be used interchangeably.No advanced knowledge of battery design or materials, just a general experiential knowledge that all batteries in general - and CR123s in particular - have not functioned equally for me. These are NON-Rechargeable Lithium Batteries.ĬR2 and CR123A are different sizes. Replaces common sizes: 123, 123A BR2/3A, CR123, CR123A, CR123R, CR17335, CR17345, DL123A, EL123AP, K123LA, SF123A, VL123A, 5018LC.ĬOST COMPETITIVE - High energy density and lasts 3-5 times longer than ordinary alkaline batteries in high drain devices.ĭo NOT charge. This is an excellent add-on product when purchasing a scope to reduce shipping costs.*Note - 4 Batteries per packīUILT-IN SAFETY FEATURES - PTC (Pressure, Temperature, Current) protection built-in to prevent your battery from overheating and over-current. Used for decreasing the voltage to a device by replacing one or more standard batteries with one of these shorted slugs. However, you will want to keep some of these on hand as a back-up to external battery pack setups. We always recommend using an external battery pack setup in conjunction with the CR123A Batteries to reduce associated costs. ![]() Dark Night Outdoors has extensively tested Tenergy CR123A and are quality replacements for thermal scope use. ![]()
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